What’s the different between Tencel™ and Lyocell ,also Modal™, Viscose? (Detailed explaination)

picture: https://www.tencel.com/

From Forest to fashion

According to the regulations of BISFA (International Man-made Fiber Standards Agency), as long as the cellulose fiber obtained by the organic solvent spinning process can be called Lyocell, Lyocell is the scientific name or collective name of this type of fiber.

Tencel™ is the registered trademark of the lyocell fiber produced by Lenzing Group. In other words, only the lyocell fiber produced by Lenzing can be called Tencel™. From a global perspective, only Lenzing Group can mass produce lyocell fibers, and other companies are only producing small batches or just samples.

From a global perspective, the performance and quality of the lyocell fiber produced by Lenzing Group is relatively stable and high quality. Other companies, including some domestic enterprises, still need to greatly improve the lyocell fiber produced. You have to choose carefully, some customer asking why their “Tencel” is pilling, I would ask “is that Tencel or Lyocell, where does it come from?”

Tencel, lyocell, Modal, viscose cloth These four concepts are the most easily confused.

Picture:https://fiberbox.lenzing-fibers.com/2017/inatex-indointertex-jakarta-indonesia/

1. Conceptual understanding

Tencel – is a registered trademark of Lenzing in Austria. Tencel is one of the most well-known brands of Lyocell, which means that Tencel is Lyocell, and Lyocell is not necessarily Tencel.( Could be cupro, modal etc).

Lyocell is the name of a new type of regenerated fiber from wood pulp, and it is the name of the international general product category. Lyocell is a big category, in the same category as cotton and silk.

For example: The Cupro Cavelry twill in our shop, is made from wood pulp (instead of Cotton seeds) , it is Cupro made from lyocell fibre.

Cupro calvary twill

Modal is a patented product of Lenzing, and it is also a regenerated fiber. The fiber production process is also environmentally friendly and has high wet strength.

Viscose is a collective term for regenerated fibers. It is also called rayon in English. The production process uses a large number of chemical additives(first generation of recycled fiber.), it’s when Lenzing introduce their EcoVero, that solve the problems of the toxic chemical during the production.

Second, the distinction between raw materials

1. Tencel

Tencel is a brand-new fiber produced by solvent spinning method with softwood pulp as raw material. It has the “comfortability” of cotton, the “strength” of polyester, the “luxury beauty” of wool fabrics, and the “unique touch” and “soft drape” of silk. It is extremely tough regardless of whether it is wet or dry. In a wet state, it is the first cellulose fiber with a wet strength far better than cotton. 100% pure natural materials, coupled with environmentally friendly manufacturing processes, is a step towards a fibre based on protecting the natural environment and fully meeting the needs of modern consumers, it can be called the green fiber of the 21st century.

2.Modal

Modal is a patented product of Lenzing in Austria. It is a kind of high wet modulus regenerated cellulose fiber. The raw material of the fiber is European beech wood, which is first made into wood pulp, and then processed into fibers through a special spinning process. The fiber production process is extremely environmentally friendly. Its wet strength is much higher than that of ordinary viscose, and its gloss, softness, moisture absorption and dyeability are better than pure cotton products. The fabric made with it has pleasant soft touch feeling and drape feeling as well as excellent durability.

3. Viscose cloth

Viscose cloth is woven from viscose fibers. Viscose fiber, which is the collective name of regenerated cellulose fiber, is also called ice silk and silk cotton. It is a major variety of man-made fibers. Traditional viscose fiber is alkali cellulose from natural cellulose, and then reacts with carbon disulfide to generate cellulose xanthate. The viscous solution obtained by dissolving in dilute alkali solution is called viscose. After spinning and a series of processing procedures, viscose fiber is formed.

3. Comparison of their respective advantages and disadvantages

Tencel, Modal, and viscose cloth are all new types of fibers.

1. In terms of fiber history,

The first generation of wood pulp fiber-Viscose viscose fiber
The second generation wood pulp fiber-Modal
The third generation of wood pulp fiber-Lyocell, Tencel

In other words, Modal appears after Viscose process (upgrade), and Modal becomes Lyocell after upgrade. And the most famous brand in Lyocell is Tencel.

2. In terms of weaving technology,

Viscose fiber—wet spinning process

Viscose fiber is alkali cellulose from natural cellulose, and then reacts with carbon disulfide to generate cellulose xanthate. The viscous solution obtained by dissolving in dilute alkali solution is called viscose. After silk and a series of treatment processes, it becomes viscose fiber.

Modal-Wet Textile Technology

The viscose wet spinning process adopted by Modal uses a large amount of caustic soda, sulfuric acid, sulfur dioxide, zinc sulfate and other chemicals to alkalize, age, dissolve, yellow, and filter the wood pulp raw materials during the spinning process. .

Lyocell/Tencel–solvent textile process

Lyocell/Tencel adopts a more environmentally friendly solvent production process. The wood pulp mainly composed of conifers and organic amine oxide solvent are mixed and heated to complete dissolution without any derivatives and chemical reactions during the dissolution process, and then the impurity spinning process is carried out. It is more environmentally friendly and does not pollute the ecology.

Fourth, the identification of three kinds of fibers

The point of everyone’s concern lies in this. There are many phenomena in the market that viscose cloth is used as modal or modal is used as Tencel.

Tencel has excellent indicators in all aspects. Hand feel, texture, strength and comfort are all excellent. Tencel will deflagrate after being ignited with a lighter. This is because Tencel fiber is purer and easier to burn. Ashes are black

Modal is second only to TENCEL, and the difference from TENCEL can only be tested in the laboratory. After Modal burned, the ashes turned white.

The viscose cloth also feels smooth, but the shrinkage rate is too large and the hardness is poor when exposed to water. Easy to fuzz and pilling, and the service life is short. Generally it can be distinguished from the price.

pink and red party sponsors

Tomorrow is #PigeonPinkRedParty Day!

Are you desperately by your sewing machine stitching those last seams? That would usually be me before a sewing event! I was almost, completely last minute, gonna sew together a whole new outfit for the party and then I realised stress sewing never ends well for me! To reiterate, you do not need to sew a new garment for the party, though I am absolutely loving seeing people inspired to make for the theme! Your outfit can be an old make or not me-made at all.

Galentines Day is all about treasuring the present moment and the little things. Like how wearing colours can change your mood, how great it feels like to get dressed in clothes you love, having an excuse to wear lipstick, putting some time aside for self care and ultimately how awesome online communities can be.

To Enter

Post a picture of yourself wearing pink and red on 13th Feburary AKA Galentines day (in your time zone). Those don’t need to be the only colours you’re wearing, we love discovering new colour combinations……….and that’s it.

Winners are chosen at random so don’t stress about the photo. Concentrate on having a good day with a bit of online fun.

The only rule is there should be no desperate stitching party day!! Relaxed sewing (if sewing is on the days plan) is however endorsed.

And now onto the sponsors…….

Sew Me Sunshine is full of joyful fabrics, haberdashery items and accessories. Harriet personally selects all the fabric she sells and she alway manages to find fabric that makes you feel happy and treasures from indie businesses. Learn a bit more about Harriet on the New Craft House Podcast

Harriet runs her fabric shop from London and once it’s possible open days to browse in person have been confirmed.

In the Haystack is a digital subscription pack, every month you’ll receive one indie PDF, discounts and articles with tips and tricks. Soon you will be able to choose between a menswear or womenswear pack. I love how Kate champions small business and makes emails exciting again. It’s like a ‘You’ve Got Mail’ moment but for sewing.

Following Kate’s personal sewing and linen making journey are inspirational. Kate is literally growing flax to then process and weave into linen fabric. Mind blown.

New Craft House save fabric from landfills and bring it to us home sewists. Hannah and Rosie are truly doing the lords work! They have a wonderful array of locally sourced designer fabric, including a special Valentines drop launched yesterday! When circumstances allow, they also run some of the most exciting sewing workshops.

Check out their podcast to know more about them and hear some wonderful guests (including moi)

Pink Coat Club is a slice of accessory goodness for every sewist. Joy creates amazing pins, labels, and fills the spot when you need something special for a sewist friend/partner……or yourself!

I really loved hearing how Joy started her business and a bit more about her on Uncut Podcast.

Stitch Crafts UK is a little treasure trove of beautiful sewing machine covers. Natalie is such a has a variety of fabric and pattern kits, liberty buttons and gift boxes. Natalie’s picks the most amazing fabric and she definitely has my sewing machine longing for a nice home!

As soon as Sew Dainty launched I was pretty much in love with everything. Kathy created jewellery perfect for every maker. All her pieces are delicate and fun. As an incredibly talented maker herself all Kathy’s jewellery is very much from the point of view of a maker.

I keep eyeing up her PDF cross stitch patterns, not that I know how to cross stitch! Her designs however might make me learn.

Ethel and Joan creator Louise, who you might know as one third of the Pattern Pals or you might have spotted Louise from her time working at Sew Over It. Louis now works a non sewing related job but she’s still whipping up gorgeous creations and hand casting beautiful buttons and buckles for us sewists.

Louise is a fantastic maker, boss babe and print lover. 

Specky seamstress is a fairly new sewing business but thanks to Laura I might never need to make bias binding ever again! (One of my top hated sewing tasks for sure) Laura will be releasing some faux leather patches for jeans in March and I can’t wait to see what other products she’ll comes up with!

Keep up with Laura and all her makes on her Youtube channel, which I love and have been a long time viewer of.

Run by Elisalex, By Hand London is THE pattern company to go to for a party dress. I love just how fun, glamorous and beautiful all the patterns they put out are. Always sewing something that inspires Elisalex personal instagram account is a much follow! We see get sneak peeks into future BHL patterns and of course drool over all the her makes.

Elisalex has been on multiple podcasts! Here are a few! Love To Sew Podcast, Fashion Half Cut, While She Naps

Alice and her daughter Lilia have created an exciting and distinctive pattern company based on Alice’s style, love of travel and comfort. Alice and Co patterns are pretty dreamy combination of great silhouettes with a comfortable twist. They’ve fully embraced zoom life and have some amazing classes available from pattern drafting to style sessions.

They have two free patterns inspired by Mary Quant available on the V&A website.

Sew sustainability enamel pins are an excellent reminder of why we make and the power of repair. Vicky is an immensely talented maker and her maker philosophy is something that really resonates with me.  

Browse through all her incredible makes on her Blog and Instagram, I’m just wishing for the day I’m half as good at knitting as her.

Sew Essential is my go to shop for all sewing accessories and sewing machine feet, along with their gorgeous fabrics they really stock everything you’ld need to kick your sewing up a gear. Sew essential is a family business and whilst you might all be familiar with Lucy she works along her husband and mother-in-law.

Lucy runs their youtube channel and it’s a must watch. So much advice and so many amazing makes.

Like Sew Amazing is a brick and mortar shop in Bristol and while the pandemic means the doors have temporarily shut, not only can you browse their beautiful fabric, haberdashery and accessories. Sarah always stocks striking, bold and fun fabrics. She also is a bit of a superwoman as she manages to find sewing time whilst running her business.

Stuck on a project? Sarah is running a sewing clinic and will be ready to give help if it’s every needed! Perfect.

Cocowawa patterns always have a whimsy, level of comfort and a lovely detail that makes them special. I love how she mixes playful dressing with practicality and how defined she is in her personal style. Seeing Ana embrace colour and creativity is inspiring and she always makes me smile and think.

Ana has a youtube channel where she does sew alongs to her sewing patterns, tells you about her plans and makes AND you also get to see how beautifully she’s decorated her home.

Now it’s on to me! Hello! My name is Megan and I run Pigeon Wishes Shops with my husband (also our toddler! He’s almost an expert at putting stamps onto things!) We are a fabric wholesale business and button suppliers. We source modern deadstock fabric, sustainable fibres and beautiful buttons.

You can find our buttons in a few fabric shops and directly on our Etsy shop. 

And that’s it! A massive thank you to all our sponsors and may the odds, be ever in your favour.

Happy night before Galentines,

Meg

Think pink collection | buttons by pigeonwishes

It’s coming up to the most emotionally confusing day of the year! 

I personally never quite knew what to do with myself on valentines day. Whether single or in a relationship. When I was in a relationship going to a busy, overcrowded restaurant (actually seems like a dream after lockdown) didn’t appeal. When I was single the excuse to eat chocolate was nice but not anything special as I have a sweet tooth. Either way the day felt like a hyped up let down!

The only aspect I could fully get behind was the colour scheme forced onto us. The colours ushered in the hope of spring and the promise of colour to come. Our new button collection available on Etsy is, of course, very much inspired by valentines day. Each button has a little personality and giving them an introduction only feels right.

Bloody Valentine

These buttons would be on ‘Brina Spellman’s cardigan and if Morticia Addams was ever to need a non black button I suspect these would be the ones to appeal. They have a slight gothic undertone and would add a lovely, subtle interest to anything they were paired with.

Speckled Pink

These buttons have such a beautiful shape and a real sense of texture. Terrazzo has become increasingly popular and these buttons have the same effect. Larger and more of a statement these buttons would be perfect with the new pattern by True Bias, the Marlo Sweater.

Love Potion

I absolutely love how these buttons have an inner sparkle and seem to have a slight magic. They are elegant and interesting which is always a beautiful combination. They remind me of Rose Quartz, the stone of love which is how they got their name.

Cherry Bomb 

These buttons are so cheerful and it does look like cherries exploded! Pink and a bit punk is the vibe. These buttons will add a dash of energy to anything they are put on and have proven to be the most popular of the collection since released.

Ringwald

My homage to Molly Ringwald. Molly was the girl to make pink edgy and this button does have a bit of a simple edge. The unusual shaping, lighter pink and the silver glitter also give a nod to the 90’s, think early Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera days. Pink is a colour coming back without the overbearing subtext of softness and femininity and it’s great to see.

And that’s the Think Pink Collection. 

We have some other newcomers to the button shop but these five seem the most appropriate to introduce first. For our seasonal collection releases the buttons won’t be replaced when they sell out. 

We loved creating this range for you and the reception so far has been amazing! Thank you so much and we can’t wait to see how you use them!

Happy Stitching,

Meg

Youtube. Social Change Creators

I found it really difficult to title this blog post. Never has there been a time when so many marginalised voices can be heard. It’s empowering and it’s amazing. 

I’ve put together a little list of must watch videos which go deeper into racism, the black experience and Brexit. These creators are talented, funny and engaging. Black Lives Matter content should take up space on your YouTube feed, if it doesn’t this should get you started.

D’angelo Wallace

Bhad Bhabie, Bhlack Bhabie 

I chose this video of his because……blackfishing. If you’ve never heard of blackfishing, this video will enlighten you.

Amanda Mary Anna

The Awkward/Quirky Black Girl

Black women as shown by mainstream media *sigh* I feel super lucky I grew up at a time when Moesha was running. Unpacking the Hollywood trope black female character. Once you see it, you can never unsee it. 

Watch ‘I May Destroy You’ from Michaela Coel (available on bbc iplayer) and appreciate her even more for creating what she does.

For Harriet

WAP and the Spectacle of Sexual Liberation 

Kim, and her content, is actually the place I learnt about intersectional feminism. Before watching her videos, in 2017, I never considered myself a feminist. Some people might find that shocking but it’s hard to connect with feminism when the majority of issues black women face have historically and consistently been erased or ignored by the feminist movement.

Kim really focuses on the nuance of being a black woman whilst involving social media, pop culture and trashy tv. A big yes to all of it.

Kelly Stamps

Why I’m leaving Boston.

Watching Kelly Stamps being Kelly Stamps is an education and I am fully enrolled. This video is especially important because when you are black; before you go on holiday, decide where you live, just before you think about existing somewhere you have to google ‘is (insert place) racist?’

Sometimes you experience that hard yes yourself and it’s refreshing to have it told so well.

Leena Norms

Go Back to Where you Come From | Creators for Change

Leena Norms. Finding her Channel was a highlight of 2020. The only Brit on the list. There are few people that can express my level of frustration with the UK currently. She is one of them. Leena is a masterclass of how to talk about race, as a white person, on the internet.

So I think I’ve given you enough for today.

All the channels I’ve recommended are amazing, loads of content to get lost in! Go forth. Youtube will get us through this lockdown collectively.

Let me know what you think, have you heard of all these creators before? Would a part 2 be of interest? Open to feedback.

Happy Youtube and stitching,

Meg x

Galentines Day 2021

You are cordially invited to the Pink and Red party.

Apply that red lipstick (….or pink if you so desire) dust off those shoes you can’t walk in (so they usually come off halfway through the night) and don your bestest pink and red regalia!

For, on February 13th, otherwise known as Galentines day, we shall stay at home but still feel ridiculously fabulous!!!

The dress code

As an at home event there isn’t one. The theme is pink and red, as long as those two colours are involved, you’re all good!

Those don’t have to be the only colours you dress in, I would personally love to see colour combinations I wouldn’t have thought of. I love pink, red and green myself.

I have a pinterest board for inspiration here which I will be adding to. I also plan to release some inspirational blog posts in the run up to the day.

How do we party?

So this is an instagram based party. Everyone and anybody on instagram can join.

As I write this, in the UK, we are still in the midst of a lockdown so this is the excuse you need to spend a day anyway you want following those rules. Netflix and knit. A sewing day. M&S Pink gin and a 80’s movie. A long walk with the family and then some baking. The choice is yours. Just, pink and red being involved is the only mandatory requirement.

This is all about living joyfully, in colours that reflect that.

Upload a photo of yourself, add the hashtag #pigeonpinkredparty and join in!

Party Day

Post a picture of you living your best pink and red life on February the 13th. Simples.

Prizes 

This event really is for fun and I don’t want to get too caught up in prizes…….but that being said PRIZES!

I’m keeping this as informal as possible.  As a proud member of the snail seamstress society I emphasize that you do not need to make a new garment for this party. I myself will be wearing something I made about 3 years ago and to last years New Craft House Valentines day party. Me-made is preferable but being involved is even better.

Prizes will be randomly selected. Winners will be drawn and informed on the 15th february.

Prizes will be revealed in the run up to the party. I am still in the process of reaching out to businesses but if anyone wants to contact me to be involved please do!

Finally

As your host and as someone who is grateful to be part of this instagram community I hope this is something that lifts spirits.

I would love for as many people as possible who would like this to be involved so spreading the word is appreciated.

Well then, see you there dah-ling,

Meg

x