Testing Rushcutter, In the Folds

Hello stitchers!!! I’m so happy to finally be able to blog about this pattern I made a month ago. Best make to date!

When I saw the Rushcutter on Em’s instagram it was pattern love at first sight. First all I could think was THE POCKETS!!!!! Then I noticed the lines and how you could have fun with stripy and checked fabrics. I was sold 100%. I mean look……

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I took this picture from In the Folds official website.

However, the pattern wasn’t available to buy. Em was putting out a call for pattern testers. I’ve never pattern tested before and even though more companies have been requesting for more pattern testers I never put myself forward…but for this pattern I jumped at the chance. I wanted to sew it up and help if I could.

I was a tester so I did the unusual and made up a calico toile. I sewed up a size C. Instead of a usual size system, there is an alphabetical one. I measured up between a B and a C. The pattern is oversized and has a lot of ease, so I could have gone for the smaller size but I have broad shoulders a decided to go with the bigger size to check the shoulder fit (first time sewing raglan sleeves!!). I’m glad I did because it was a perfect fit and any smaller would have been uncomfortable.

Pattern changes:

Without any modifications the style was too oversized and long for me, #5″3problems. So for this final version I sized down to size B everywhere but the shoulders. I also took about 5cm off the length. I think I went a bit to short but I do like the 60’s mini feel it has too it.

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The instructions where AMAZING. Em broke it down like no other pattern I’ve seen. Fully photographed step by step sewing instructions. It was a dream!!!

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I, especially, like being fully guided along new sewing techniques and this pattern did that!! There is also a less detailed instruction sheet for more experienced stitchers.

This was a beginner pattern but has enough scope to be a beginner plus one too. The pattern really encourages you to use a bias binding finish, so I went for it and am now in love with bias binding. The fabric I used for bias binding was in my stash and I had no idea what to do with it or if I even liked it anymore and now it’s gone on to be a lovely pile of bias binding.

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I did all the bias binding without a bias binding maker. It was just the iron and me and after nearly burning myself five times I realised, for this, steam is not my friend!! This bias binding tutorial from The Village Haberdashery was the best reference I found.

I did make one mistake and I’m so annoyed with myself about the hem of this dress. It was PERFECT in my toile but I was sewing tired and somehow messed up the inside hem thing and made it too small!!

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When I was about to finish the hem I realised my mistake but honestly couldn’t be bothered to unpick, recut and sew in one that was the correct size. Now, as you can see, There’s a strange pucker/pleat thing. The perfectionist in my cried but I love everything about the rest of this dress so much, I put that voice firmly away!!

I really enjoyed this sew and am already planning to make some more. I did get the pattern free for being a tester. In the Fold is a new company and I wish it all the best and can’t wait to see what else will come from them in the future.

If anyone can remember this is the fabric I bought that I had no idea what to do with. I think I’m changing my mind about keeping a stash!! 🙂 The more fabric the merrier!! If anyone is going to SewBrum I will see you on Halloween 🙂

xxx

Floralotte…Or My By Hand London Charlotte skirt with Flora bodice Failure

Hello!! Is anyone else feeling that promise of Spring and more daylight joy? I have had a couple of health problems but I have sewed up a storm I want to share with you guys 🙂 but before that I needed to post this make. The first failed project I’m showcasing on this blog.

Floralotte. Oh, Floralotte. I felt all sewing blogger when I planned this dress. An indie pattern, check. A hacking challenge, check. And last but not least a gorgeous Japanese fabric, check. I was ready to take my sewing blogger level.

However, I’ve never made anything i love so much and hate so much at the same time! Her in all her glory!

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Now down to why I hate her! Number One. Fitting issues. The pattern I used the By Hand London Flora is marked at easy and it was, putting together the bodice was like a dream!! The pattern makes inserting a lining a piece of cake and the finishing looks like someone advanced and skilled made it….but the fitting. If you know how to adapt a bodice to your size, it’s all good, but I don’t know and relied totally on the sew along. I have broad shoulder and small bust and a normal waist. This added up to a small bust adjustment (my bust was sooo baggy), which I just couldn’t understand how to do! I honestly found the BHL sew along useless for showing how to do the adjustment. At risk of sounds dumb, there was not enough pictures to show the beginning, middle and end for the adjustment. Plus,I couldn’t work out how to do the adjustment with making the waist too small.

When I made my toile, I tried to pinch out the extra fabric. I pinched until my self esteem couldn’t take it anymore and ended up making the bust dart twice as big . Also the dart didn’t point to my nipple so I just tried to angle it down to the right place. By the end it was a butchered, big, sad looking dart..and the bodice is still too loose.

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Number Two. I made the skirt too short and too tight. It covers my bum and that’s it. The dress squeezes at my thighs and is loose on my waist. The MAIN problem with all my high street bought clothes and why I turned to sewing for a better fit!! The Charottle skirt pattern has been so good to me. I made a big mistake for this project, I wanted the skirt shorter at the last minute, so I thought…let me just sew the waist up higher, it didn’t even occur to me how it would change the whole fit of the skirt until I was finished and tried it on. Thinking of all my labour time for a unwearable dress *sad song plays in head*

Last Problem. Pattern matching. You can see the back matching problem but this side problem drives me crazy!

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Especially because the otherside is perfect!!!

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When I started reading sewing blogs I never thought of the pile of unwearable, sadness I would have to accept as a beginner rite of passage.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions of what I can do with the fabric I would love to hear them and would be so grateful! I really do love the fabric and don’t want to waste it on a spoilt project.

Sorry for such a grim post!! Should be posting my next, more successful, make soon 🙂

Bye for now 🙂