#Sewingtheseventies Qipao/Cheongsam

Completing a sewing challenge with over a week to spare…This is sky falling down territory! When saw the #sewingtheseventies challenge by Steely SeamstressSteely Seamstress I really wanted to take part, so it was the best of luck I just happened to be working on a seventies sewing pattern (1972) and my fabric choice was not only vintage…but seventies as anything!!!!! Fate you wanted me to do this post and be apart of this!!

So here’s my entry…

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I’m going to call this dress a qipao rather than a cheongsam. Both are correct, just qipao is the Mandarin way and cheongsam is the Cantonese way. My husband speaks Mandarin so I’m just used to calling it a qipao.

The Pattern

I bought this pattern, Simplicity 5010, on Etsy and I was ummming and ahhing about buying it for months. Firstly, at the grand price of £20 including postage, it would be the most money I have ever spent on a sewing pattern. Secondly, it was from America, with no postal insurance so maybe it wouldn’t even turn up.

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BUT I was in love…with that keyhole neckline. Other qipao sewing patterns just didn’t come close and I’ve wanted to sew a qipao for awhile. I even love it more than the qipao on my make nine list, which was is also gorgeous.

For a bit more information about vintage qipao patterns there is an excellent blog post here by Devine Stitches

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Fitting

I knew the fit on the bust would be perfect, I bought the 34 inch bust pattern specifically so I wouldn’t have to do a bust adjustment, I hate doing those! but I know vintage sizing is still different from todays and I’m a pear so knew the fit wouldn’t be perfect everywhere.

….and as suspected I did need a bit more space on for my bum/hips. I used a really small seam allowance for the back seam so it is baggier then it should be, as I wanted to err on the side of caution. Which was great for my hips but not no much for the waist. I think everything fits except the hips so that’s a pretty easy fitting issue to solve.

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The wind is making it very difficult for you to see the great A line skirt shape but this dress is so comfortable!!

The Fabric

I got this fabric from the sewing weekender fabric swap. Thank you lovely person who donated it!! It’s fabric I would usually say isn’t my style but as soon as I saw it I loved it! and I thought it would be perfect for a qipao when I saw it too!!

I have no idea what it is all I know is it made making those rouleau loops a complete nightmare. It feels quite stiff and synthetic and cuts and sews nicely.

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I am so happy with this dress and am just waiting for sunnier days. My only gripe is how annoying the facings are and I intend to fully line the whole thing next time.

I turned the collar down for these pictures because I was a bit intimidated by how tall the collar was!!  I was planing on making it shorter but now I’m very happy with the length, to see full up collar and more of this dress I have a youtube video up on it.

Happy sewing,

#makenine2017

I’ve been avoiding this little corner of internet I created this year (hello Spring!!) and sharing stuff online that the majority of my family doesn’t know left me feeling very, very awkward. However the amazing, amazing words you’ve written to me and the feeling felt cannot be expressed by a small sentence online and I can only say the biggest thank you.

and back to our favourite topic. Sewing!!!

Last years make nine feel kinda flat. Counting I made 4 of them, which is more than I thought I did. However, two are unwearable which is probably why I blanked them from my memory…Looking back the list was thrown together with little thought of practicality or sewing a wardrobe that would work in my day to day life.

I believe in the power of lists and older, *ahem* wiser here’s my list for 2017..

 

By Hand London, Victoria Blazer

I’ve made this pattern before but I want to make it again a different view (the cropped one you can see in the picture). I like everything about this pattern but made the mistake of making the sleeveless view the first time round and it is too cold to be going out in a sleeveless blazer most of the time!

Deer and Doe, Lupin Jack

Another jacket, which will fill a gap I have in my wardrobe for a Spring jacket. At the moment I go straight from a Winter coat to coatless purely because I have no go between.

Closet Case Files, Carolyn Pyjamas

I desperately need Pyjamas. I can’t even remember a time I bought/owned pyjamas. I’ve been surviving off big t-shirts and very old leggings for over a decade and after stealing my husbands pyjamas for a weekend I realised I need to have a set of pyjamas in my life.

Kommatia, Cropped trousers

The thought of having a staple pair of flattering trousers is a dream. I’m turning away from dresses and skirts ,which used to be my uniform, to just wanting to live in trouser.

Butterick, B6285 Wrap Top

Again I’m in need of tops. I have enough summer clothes and this year is gonna be all about separates and layering.

Simplicity, 1950’s Qipao

This is the only really impractical make on the list. I love Qipao’s. I own a few but would love to be able to make my own. I was ecstatic when this pattern was re-released, I had been stalking the original on Etsy for a year, and bought it immediately.

 

Simple Sew, Cara Jumpsuit

I joined the Simple Sew Bloggers Network and this make jumpsuit has been on the list for a few months…oops. That being said I have really wanted to make this jumpsuit as I love the how easy jumpsuits are to wear. The wonderful Eleanor from nelnanandnora gave me the one she made it’s really a lovely jumpsuit.

Sew Over It, Heather dress

I’ve wanted this dress ever since I saw it as a class about two years ago AND FINALLY IT’S MINE MWHAHAHAHAHAHA and yeah, it looks like a really comfortable and practical dress 🙂

Tilly and the Buttons, Cleo

I’ve made this one!! That’s one off the list. I got some African wax print which was perfect for this pattern and this was my first make for 2017. A super easy sew that really got my sewjo going.

I’ve got a massive list of patterns I want to sew through and this year I plan to sew fearlessly. Vintage patterns..let me at you. Difficult fabrics..I’m coming for you. And new skills..you will be learnt!!!

Happy sewing

xx

 

 

Sewing Weekender Swap Haul

The week I heard my scholarship to China had fallen through because not enough people had applied, was the week the Foldlines Sewing Weekender was announced. The stars aligned. I bought my tickets at once and so did a lot of other people. That day was impulse buy day for many UK sewers! There was such a demand and the event was such a success that I have a feeling more will definitely be taking place. Which is brilliant because I know many more people wanted to come.

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There have been blog posts from Lucy from Sew Essential Rach (Rach Against the Machine), Crafty Clyde, Charlotte (English Girl at Home), Ginger Thread GirlFehr Trade, The Fabric Wangler and What Corrine Did…I think that’s every blog post..

..and if you still want more Gabby did an amazing vlog  capturing some of the atmosphere. We were 50 woman, who love sewing….and were crazily excited about being with so many other people who loved sewing. Imagine a sewing comic con. We were all very passionate about our hobby!!!!

If you notice there’s not a single moment where I’m captured sat down sewing. I’m eating, hanging out at the fabric/pattern swapping area and chatting. That is a realistic portrait of how I spent the weekend.

Photographic evidence.

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I imagine lots of people can relate when I say, I knew zero people who sewed when I started sewing. Meet ups are the stuff of my dreams and how I met lots, if not all, of my sewing friends. I mingled and talked and relished in the fact that everyone was so open, friendly and willing to talk sewing.

Now, I’m gonna get down to it and tell you about my finds from the swap. Nothing amplifies the phrase to me ‘one mans rubbish is another mans treasure’ quite like a good old sewing meet up swap!

Here are the larger pieces of fabric I got, there seems to be a theme going on. For some reason that day blue was speaking to me! and vintage flower prints. No idea what I will do with this lot but I do love looking at it.

 

Now for the smaller pieces. Again, another theme going on here! These pieces are quite tiny but because of that I have less choices and more on an idea of what I’ll make with each bit. The first fabric I’m gonna try and make a pair, of very tiny, shorts. The middle one is maybe enough for a scarf and the last piece, which is jersey, I can get a small top out of.

 

I tried to be as restrained as possible with the patterns, when I first started sewing patterns/Burda magazines were my biggest impulse buy and I am very aware that I have more patterns than I will ever need…but oh the possibilities…

These two vintages pieces caught my eye. They are so pretty and I can imagine swishing around in the left one and as for the one on the right, I can never say no to a 60’s pattern in my size. The sixties are my favourite decade.

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Ever since Rosabella mentioned the Overture Set on one her vlog I knew I needed this pattern. I was gonna buy the magazine, which it came with, but luckily someone brought it to the swap. I love it, oversized clothes are my preferred silhouette and I’m looking through the stash so I can get this made as soon as possible! The other pattern looks like a nice staple dress…yeah, not as enthused about that one but it’s got potential.

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These two last patterns are part of a project I have mulling around in my brain. I want to find my perfect shirtdress. Making wardrobe staples is my next big challenge, now my sewing is beyond a hope-this-works-out level, and I really want to find what makes me feel confident and comfortable and I think shirt dresses are the way to go.

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I wish I could thank everyone personally for their donations! I am really grateful to get such lovely stuff as I’m trying, and sometimes failing, at buying as little fabric as possible this year.

If anyone is going to Sew Brum I’ll see you there..maybe…more than a hundred people are coming, so if you spot me say hi!  🙂

Meg xx